It was only from about that the VIA drivers became clearly the best ones to use. Well over four years old, and still the best all-round Super 7 motherboard. In reality, this was a trivial matter: ATA was very little if any faster than ATA with the then-current generation of hard drives, and we missed it not at all. Postscript: February We've bought our last batch of VAs. When our current hoard runs out, that's it. After what is quite possibly the longest main board production run ever, the is no more.
We will miss this cheap, flexible, wonderful old faithful the way we missed the DX Vale Like the , it was around for a very long time and was still the best of breed when it was discontinued sometime in Like the , the PA had no peer in its category: if there was a better Super 7 board we'd like to have met it. These were described on the page. They remained a steady seller even after the arrival of the second generation Athlon boards, right up until the new breed of Socket A CPUs arrived.
Over time we became quite fond of the SD They had not got any smaller, so they only just squeezed into the cases, the layout was weird, and the manual remained a bit odd, but the markings on the board itself were perfectly clear if you could read the tiny things, and most of the time they just performed without fuss or bother.
Reliability was on a par with most decent boards; not outstanding but certainly adequate, and in reality we suspect that most of the problems we had with these could be traced down to the ridiculous CPU mounting method. Slots were a bad idea when Intel introduced them with the Pentium II in , and did not improve over time. The price gradually crept down as the months went by too: the SDs wound up considerably cheaper than a BX board.
These had a renewed lease of life for us in late and early when a regular supplier of ours offered us a number of them complete with Athlon Thunderbird CPUs yes, slotted Thunderbirds, not Athlon Classics. The price was such that they made a very attractive low-cost upgrade alternative to a Duron or Celeron.
One thing to watch with these: they are very demanding about power supplies. Even many of the AMD certified units cannot run an SD with a slotted Thunderbird reliably, you need a unit that is certified for the particular combination of main board and CPU. Our otherwise excellent A-Open PSUs, which powered Athlon XPs and the massively demanding Thunderbird s without the slightest bother, were not sufficient for this pairing.
If you are getting hard drive read errors with an SD, odds-on you need to upgrade your power supply. And why should such a modest seeming rig require so much power?
We have no idea. In the end, we come back to our favourite motto: we don't care why it works, just so long as it does work. Microstar have been around for a long time. We remember using their boards sometimes. They were beautifully packaged and came with what was then a truly impressive set of drivers and utility software: from anti-virus stuff right up to dial-in remote control software.
Full marks so far. The glossy manual seemed nicely done too — until you realise that the only important part, the CPU jumper settings, are all back-to-front!
Still, you could work it out with a little careful thought. Less easy to fathom was the silly hardware monitoring feature: the boards report "system hardware abnormal" and beep loudly on boot until you either use an on-board fan connector or disable the CPU fan sensor. Not so much a case of poor design but rather just poor documentation and badly chosen BIOS defaults. These days, when CPUs run so much hotter and it would make sense to do this, all the main board manufacturers do the opposite.
Go figure. The boards themselves were fairly standard ATX fare, reasonably laid out, quite small and yet still nice and roomy. The chipset-integrated sound worked just fine, and was very configurable via the BIOS, but the driver install program could be fussy, particularly if you were upgrading from an older soundcard, so take care. Once it was up and running, it was fine. All in all, a competent board once you got used to its oddities and stopped relying on the manual!
These filled a major gap in our motherboard line-up, one that had troubled us for some months: the entry-level integrated board. As always with ASUS products, our first impressions revolved around a reasonably sensible layout bar the placement of the switches at the front right — just where they are impossible to reach once installed in a system , excellent build quality, and superb documentation. On closer inspection, minor flaws became apparent.
The prime issue was detail layout. The two sets of dip switches covering a host of options were scattered every which way.
Despite the excellent manual, these were tricky to set up. The optional on-board ESS Solo soundcard worked just fine, though we still wished it had been a Soundblaster. But perhaps it was just as well: over the next few months the return rate proved to be a little higher than we would have liked.
On the other hand, ASUS had the habit of converting us to their point of view, so we were interested in trying these out. They cost about the same as an Epox or a , perhaps a few dollars more, so it was purely down to which one we would rather use. In normal use you should not run both chipset UDMA and real mode DOS type drivers at the same time, but in the workshop it is often needed for troubleshooting. Jumper settings were clear enough, though still inferior to the outstanding Epox system.
The board itself was rather small but neatly laid out. Most things were easy to reach, though the power supply connector was too close to the edge of the board and tended to foul on other objects in the case. We didn't like the way that one of the mounting screw holes was actually inside the CPU socket you can see it at the top right of the socket in the illustration — this is cumbersome and creates extra work in a production environment, and becomes a real pain if you have to troubleshoot.
Yet another MVP3 board, on the face of things as typical as any other. They came in two versions, quite different but sharing the same model number. The boards came ex-factory with some weird jumper settings that make no sense, but that's common too. Main board detail design and documentation errors are, alas, standard fare these days.
There are very few motherboard makers who get it right all the time. Error message: Error loading 3dfxcmn. Editing the registry can be tricky. Error message: CoCreate Instance Failed. It has been determined that this conflict can occur because of previous registry entries from other video cards especially a Diamond product.
If there was a previous Diamond card in the system, Diamond technical support has a utility that will fix this issue.
Remove all traces of "Voodoo," "3dfx" and "Glide" from the registry. Then install the new drivers. If you would rather not edit the registry yourself, there is a new 3dfx Device Uninstaller utility available which will accomplish this procedure for you. Please contact 3dfx Technical Support for the utility.
What is the best way to install new drivers for my Voodoo3 card or install it for the first time? Follow the "b" steps. This will take you into the "system properties.
Now double-click on the display adapter listed. Then choose the "driver" tab. Now choose "update" or "change" driver depending upon which version of Windows you have. You will then want to choose the options "display a list of all drivers" and then "show all hardware" to bring up the Windows list of manufacturers.
The "standard display types" are at the top of the list. After choosing this adapter, if you have Windows 98 you will get a warning message. Disregard it and choose "yes.
You will now need to reboot to make the change take affect Windows will prompt you to do this. Reboot again. Reboot the computer again. When prompted to reboot go to the next step. Remove the video card you are replacing and then insert the Voodoo3 card into the first PCI slot or whichever one is available if you do not want to move cards around or AGP slot.
Connect the monitor and power cord and power the machine back on. After booting up, Windows should detect the new card, and the installation process from the CD should autorun and continue again.
Install the 3dfx tools and reboot. If you have a previous version of DirectX prior to DX6. Simply replace the previous video card with the Voodoo3. Cancel when Windows detects the card upon boot up and double click on the Voodoo3 driver file you have downloaded to install the newest drivers and 3dfx tools.
I have an onboard video card and I'm having problems getting my Voodoo3 to take over as the primary video card. If your computer system has an onboard display adapter, you can try a couple of things to see if the adapter will properly disable.
The first thing you can do is to remove the Voodoo3 adapter and bring the system down to Standard VGA. Once that is done, check the device manager tab to see if there is a check box that says "Disable in this hardware profile" If there is a check box, place a check mark in that box and shutdown the computer.
Once that is done, place the Voodoo3 adapter back into the system. Let Windows detect that a new display adapter is in the system and have it install the Standard VGA driver. Then let the system reboot. Go into the device manager and make sure that there are two listings in the Display area of the device manager.
Check to see if one of them has a "Red X" on it. The system will ask to be rebooted. Please let it reboot. You should be up and functional. Make sure that it is set to PCI. You may need to either upgrade the BIOS or move a jumper on the motherboard.
Also, please check to ensure that all the utilities for the onboard display adapter are removed from the system. Uninstall any drivers or utilities having to do with your onboard video card. Because there are many different versions of Windows available, these instructions could vary slightly. ADD 8F, No. Who We Are? AR HUD. Digital Cluster. Smart City AIoT. Smart Building. Smart Farming.
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